Lakeland Mirror

Issue date: 12/7/06 Section: Features

A lot of things have changed in the last hundred years; most notably is the pace at which people go through life. That is why it is a wonder to think a 116-year-old meat market could still operate making traditional German style sausage in the old world custom, which takes several days to prepare.

The Howard's Grove Meat Market, owned and operated by Jeff Gumieny, is a historic landmark. Located along Highway 32, it is the oldest traditional butcher shop in Wisconsin which still produces German style products.

The historic shop has been the focal point of many television shows including the Daily Show, Outdoor Wisconsin, and various shows from the Food Network. Even a few of the Green Bay Packers have come up to sample the wares.

Having been remolded in 1950, the shop still maintains its original appearance and three of the original buildings. The smoke house and slaughter house still stand behind the store where the meat is carved. The aging, deep red, brick smoke house in back is still in use almost continuously.

When you walk in everything seems to immediately slow down as the smell of freshly smoked beef wafts to your nostrils. Easily getting caught up in a conversation, you forget about life and everything comes to a stand still.

Gumieny, an avid conversationalist, will talk with any customer about the history of the store, the ways in which they cut meat, and how to properly prepare it.

Gladly assisting any customer, he tries to make sure they are eating a balanced diet. He gained this knowledge while obtaining his 'all around butcher degree' from South-West Wisconsin Technical Institute.

Service like this is something you might expect from a health expert, but certainly not expect to find at the local Pigg'y Wiggly. This is part of the traditional "old world" way of doing things which Gumieny now carries on.

Even though the store is nearing its 116th anniversary, its traditions are just as strong as when it was first opened thanks to the values of of the previous owners.

Founded in 1891 by Diedrich Nordholz, it was located along the only road from Milwaukee to Green Bay. It was later sold to Henry and Gustave Eckardt in 1900 and again sold in 1937 to Theodore and Roma Toepel, the nephews of Henry Eckardt.

Working under the guidance of Theodore Toepel, Gumieny learned the "old world" way of smoking meat and the wisdom handed down from his predecessor. "I always worked with older people as a young man. There is a lot to learn from them," said Gumieny.

Continued...

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